In an alternate timeline, I’d find myself bathing deep in the restorative forests of Japan’s Kii Peninsula at this very moment. Later on, I’d slip into a steamy beer onsen (yes, you read that correctly) at the Misugi Resort, then spend an afternoon cycling through a series of remote villages, stopping only to slurp the requisite amount of soba noodles. Afterwards, I’d venture south via train through a bucket list landscape draped in cherry blossoms to backpack one of the most classic routes along the Kumano Kodō, a patchwork of lush mountain pilgrimages. In a few days’ time, I’d decamp to the remote Yoshino Cedar House, a stunning testament to both design and community, before setting off to race a half-marathon in Kyoto, with some joyous trail running to follow in Tokyo’s serene outskirts.
Instead, here in horrible now of this novel coronavirus, I’m social distancing in my small studio apartment in Los Angeles, sippin’ on whisky, listening to the rain, and nurturing a fair amount of loneliness. Trip cancelled. Dreams dashed. And psych a bit deflated, if I’m being honest.
So I understand why thru-hikers are heartbroken that they’re being asked by organizations like the Pacific Crest Trail Association and Appalachian Trail Conservancy to postpone or cancel their upcoming hikes, and leave the trail if they’ve already begun. I’d been planning my trip to Japan for several months; for many long trail hikers, the wheels have been in motion for a year or longer. Securing permits. Saving money. Buying gear. Quitting jobs. Selling belongings. Ending leases. Uprooting lives. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime proposition for many, and an incredibly hard blow to watch your efforts and aspirations so suddenly spin into dust.
But here’s the deal—instead of the oft-repeated thru-hiker refrain of “hike your own hike,” a call for individualism and self-reliance if there ever was, the truth is that now, we’re all in it together. It’s time to push pause for the greater good.
As evidenced by posts on trail-related Facebook pages and other forms of social media, plenty of folks are heeding the call to make camp at home. But it’s disturbing to see the surprising number of hikers—both literal and armchair—determined to stay the course, medical science, government orders, and public health be damned.
A common argument I’ve read is that the trail offers solitude, and is a great place to practice what has been dubbed “social distancing,” the idea that we need to stay at least 6’ away from others to avoid spreading the virus. While this may be true on remote segments of long trails, it’s certainly not the case as you near trailheads, where unprecedented congestion has caused parks and trail systems around the country to shut down. And it’s definitely not possible in shelters, campsites, and hostels, where hikers—not the most hygienic folks to begin with—bed down in close quarters.
Even if you’re able to avoid traffic on trail, there’s still the matter of resupply. Normally, hikers might stock up in small towns near the trail, or have someone back home ship pre-packed boxes full of goodies via post offices, hostels, or trail angels along their route. But small towns are asking visitors to stay away. Grocery options in these areas are already limited, even more so now. Hospital beds are similarly rare; much-needed ventilators, doubly so. In places like California, where all non-essential businesses have shuttered and the public has been ordered to stay at home, lodging is closed and the likelihood of catching a hitch from the trailhead is greatly diminished. And many of the trail angels who traditionally host hikers are older folks, placing them at high risk should they contract the virus. Think you couldn’t possibly place them in danger because you don’t think you’re sick? Well, you don’t actually know if you’re sick unless you’ve been tested; asymptomatic carriers are common.
We’re in uncharted territory. For many of us, the trail offers a sense of solace, a place for connection, a balm for the soul, an opportunity to escape—and I’m sure a lot of us could use a hefty dose of each of those right now. It is okay to mourn that loss. But staying home is the right thing to do. It’s an act of love—for the trail, for your fellow hikers, for the communities you would pass through, and for yourself. And that love is exactly the kind of thing we should be spreading around right now.
Top photo: Tony Webster
To read the author’s excellent guide to the Southern California section of the PCT, grab her book, here.
If you follow the Trek, or other thru-hiking sources you will find that many people ‘post’ a week or more after the fact, not in ‘real time’. So although many people may appear to still be on trail, most have exited. Not to mention since many had already started the AT or PCT, there can be a lag in communication, as well as finding an ‘exit point’ from the trail. I get your point, but I believe there are very few thru-hikers, still on trail at this point.
Strict closures such as these ignore those who have had covid19, survived, recovered and pose no threat of spreading, nor fear of getting the virus. The numbers of these people are increasing as the weeks go by and at some point will be our path back to normalcy as they become acknowledged and recognized in the statistical analysis of this phenomenon.
Sharon, that’s wrong.
There is no evidence to indicate re-infection is not possible.
Also you can contract the virus from somebody who is asymptomatic.
https://www.vox.com/science-and-health/2020/3/20/21173472/coronavirus-pandemic-unknowns-questions-seasonality-reinfection-covid-19
Red River Gorge is being over run right now. I imagine a lot of state parks are. A friend of mine spoke to Ranger there, who told them that it was the busiest they have ever seen it. The area is suffering because of it, let alone the lack of social distancing, think public toilets etc. She begged him to stay home, as we all should for now. Think of the positives… if we all give nature its breathing space, and when its suitable to return to the trails, hopefully the wildlife will be numerous, vegetation will be recovered, and some places will be looking more like Eden.
I always enjoy your writing, Shawnté.
Back in the day, the trail would have been the ideal place to ride out a pandemic. Sure, there might have been a few hundred people at the start but that would thin out quickly and every one would excel at social distancing. However, in modern times (since about 2015-2016), thru hiking (on the big three trails) has gone viral and hikers are increasing in number exponentially. THOUSANDS of hikers are now moving down the trails each season. This is a mess both environmentally and public heath wise already. In IMHO it is unacceptable to hike a big three trail during this pandemic. The last thing the often elderly, living on a fixed income-often below the poverty line, trail town inhabitants need is thousands of young, healthy carriers of the coronavirus flooding their towns in droves. Thru hikers, and I am one of you, please do everyone a favor and just wait until next season.