13
Intro Intro
By Stephen Casimiro
16
Mementos, Notes, and Fragments Mementoes Notes and Fragments
By Staff
22
Recommended Reading Recommended Reading
By Emily White
24
Feature For Sale or Trade, One Reverse-Averse Van
Found on the Seattle Craigslist, its author unknown, this prose-poem farewell to a beloved vehicle contains a multitude of tales By Luc Mehl
28
Natural Curiosities There’s a Superorganism Right Beneath Your Feet
Meet the strange, living crust that holds the desert together By Justin Housman
30
Feature A Land Apart
Now at peace, Kurdistan tries to reclaim its mountain past and build its recreational future By Aaron Gulley
44
Feature Surf City, Canada
How did a small Vancouver Island seaport become the most surf-crazed town in North America? By Steve Hawk
56
Feature Unblinking
Conservation photographer Cristina Mittermeier has a clear-eyed view of our environmental crisis and a hard-edged strategy for addressing it By Mary Anne Potts
70
Weekend Cabin When a Family Cabin Forms You
By Stephen Casimiro
76
Feature Norse Saga
In the Faroe Islands, nothing is flat, the wind blows hard or not at all, and a human-powered crossing demands any means necessary Photos by David Fletcher and Jason Stirling
88
Feature Cold Catalyst
Open-water swimming explores the boundaries of sensation, instinct, and comfort By Jessica J. Lee
96
Feature A Big Day in the Sky
New Hampshire's Presidential Traverse holds the highest points in the East, all above treeline, and they're spiced by the world's worst weather By Leath Tonino
104
Feature Mistakes Will Be Made
A collection of mishaps, screwups, oversights, and other assorted mayhem as confessed by some of the world's top adventurers
112
Three Square Three Square
Fall is a spectacular time to be outside. These three recipes are among our favorite autumn combinations By Megan McDuffie and Michael van Vliet
116
Portfolio Portfolio: Against the Flow
A group of climbers travels to Japan's tallest waterfall for initiation to the ancient practice of sawanobori Photos by Caroline Ciavaldini, Matty Hong, and Pietro Porro
128
Resources Resources
Beta, details, URLs, and more By Staff