The Plateau
Loch Eanaich from Sgor Gaoith on the plateau looking east to Braer Riach
AJ 37 FEATURE

The Plateau

In this excerpt from a beloved UK classic, now available in the US, a lifelong Scottish highland hiker brings her watchful eye and crystal prose to the rugged Cairngorm Mountains

Photos by Rosamund Macfarlane

Summer on the high plateau can be delectable as honey; it can also be a roaring scourge. To those who love the place, both are good, since both are part of its essential nature. And it is to know its essential nature that I am seeking here. To know, that is, with the knowledge that is a process of living. This is not done easily nor in an hour. It is a tale too slow for the impatience of our age, not of immediate enough import for its desperate problems. Yet it has its own rare value. It is, for one thing, a corrective of glib assessment: one never quite knows the mountain, nor oneself in relation to it. However often I walk on them, these hills hold astonishment for me. There is no getting accustomed to them.

The Cairngorm Mountains are a mass of granite thrust up through the schists and gneiss that form the lower surrounding hills, planed down by the ice cap,

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