Seriously Committed to the Sharp End
Protestors occupy the first portaledge hung above the Atxarte S.A. mine, June 1990
AJ 38 FEATURE

Seriously Committed to the Sharp End

When a mining company started blowing up a Spanish big-wall paradise, climbers took to the heights in protest—and stayed there five years

Photos by ATX ARTE BIZIRIK ARCHIVE

Hanging in an orb of dim light, Guillermo “Wili” Bañales was all alone. The flickering headlamp had just enough juice to partially illuminate the rock in front of his hands, but a meter to either side lurked an inky abyss. Over the last decade, the twenty-seven-year-old had committed this climbing route to memory, one of more than five hundred routes on Atxarte, the iconic limestone wall in the heart of Spain’s Basque Country.

Still, this felt new. Close to midnight, he had slipped past metal fencing and tents of armed guards. Over the last few weeks, those corporate mercenaries had been firing rubber bullets and tear gas canisters at his crew, and Wili wasn’t taking any chances. Leaving his rope and belay partner at home, he free-soloed his way above the fray with nothing but a backpack full of chorizo, bread, and a few cartons of milk. Every two meters, he pulled a stick of butter from his pants pocket and rubbed a

3,000 words to go

You’re just getting to the good part.

This story — and 41 issues of them — opens with a subscription.

Either one picks up right where you left off.

Join 7,000+ readers · Independently owned · Since 2008

Adventure Journal — Print Quarterly
Stories like this, in your hands four times a year.

41 issues. 10 years. Independently owned. Printed on 70lb uncoated paper with a soft-touch cover, solar-powered, and shipped in a brown paper envelope. Free domestic shipping.

Subscribe — $80/year Or try a single issue for $25

There is nothing else like it. — AJ subscriber