Arriving in Arizona from different sides of the country, we seek out a local climber for advice. I-itoi, he tells us, is the Tohona god who lives in the mountain. Don’t forget to leave an offering for him if you make the summit. And, oh yeah, you won’t make the summit. No one does, the first time. Takes two or three tries.
He also advises the western approach: better road, easier trail to find; even though it’s longer, you’re less likely to become lost. Get a pair of leather gloves, he adds, the desert will eat up your hands. Also, roving packs of coatamundi will find your food stashes, so hang it up.
Coatamundi?
As we leave, his coworker cackles I-itoi will spin you around!
The road west out of Tucson is lined with descansos, traditional Mexican Catholic shrines marking the deaths of accident victims. The road is relatively straight and the light is good and I am mystified as to
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