Burn Notice
Mount Index from the north, North Cascades, Washington State. Its three summits are seen here, right to left: North Peak, Middle Peak (with its slightly lower false summit at right), and the Main Peak, at upper left/center.
AJ 31 FEATURE

Burn Notice

When a climbing partnership ends suddenly, all that's left is scorched earth, and silence

Photos by John Scurlock

It is always a shock when you make the abrupt transition from a trusted mountain companion—climbing partner, backpacker, day hiking buddy—to persona non grata. And you might not grasp the full extent of it in the present moment. Perhaps only later will you realize that you are truly burned. Of course, sometimes it happens right to your face. Those are the worst.

You wonder why it happened, though it is likely you will never really know. You have been irrevocably cut off. Dumped! End stop. It doesn’t happen often, but it happens, and when it does, it stops you cold.

Many years ago, Denny and I attempted a traverse of the three peaks of Mount Index in the Cascades of Washington state. Upon arriving on the summit of the North Peak, exhausted and running out of daylight, we bivouacked. After a sleepless night, we abandoned the traverse, rappelling back down the route we had climbed the day before. Except for the brushy

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