Circling Heaven
Photo by Andrew Burr
AJ 07 FEATURE

Circling Heaven

A high-elevation bikepacking expedition to Pakistan asks why we're compelled—and what it means—to build memorials near the places where good friends disappear

Guys, I realize this will never meet your living eyes now that you are gone, but know that rarely does a day go by without the fortuitous collision of our existences crossing my mind and bringing me pause. I just returned from the Choktoi after a mission to see where you now rest. I don’t believe in a traditional construct of heaven and angels, but we sure did a lot of staring up toward what could easily be mistaken for such. You have a lofty perch up there. I can’t say that I envy your position, but we couldn’t help feeling a strong pull toward that place. Our intent was to keep a safe distance (no climbing), but you know how that goes—things got a bit rowdy at one point. Jewel and Angela were there, and Burr, too. Ghafoor took great care of us, and we laughed for hours in the shadow of the Ogres. Thanks for bringing us all together in that ethereal place, but we sure miss you boys down here. —Doom

2,400 words to go

You’re just getting to the good part.

This story — and 41 issues of them — opens with a subscription.

Either one picks up right where you left off.

Join 7,000+ readers · Independently owned · Since 2008

Adventure Journal — Print Quarterly
Stories like this, in your hands four times a year.

41 issues. 10 years. Independently owned. Printed on 70lb uncoated paper with a soft-touch cover, solar-powered, and shipped in a brown paper envelope. Free domestic shipping.

Subscribe — $80/year Or try a single issue for $25

There is nothing else like it. — AJ subscriber