Derek Hynd might be the most self-actualized human being on the planet. He could be 60 by now, must be, in fact, but I wouldn’t be surprised if even Hynd doesn’t know his own age. Can’t imagine he cares much. Australian by birth, South African by choice, he lives to surf one wave and one wave alone: J-Bay. It’s one of the world’s finest waves and a perfect test track for what Hynd calls friction-free surfing. He rides long, fast boards shaped without a fin, with hydrodynamically sophisticated bottom contours shaped in to maximize speed and to provide a smidge of grip on the wave face. This is Hynd’s entire essence, distilled. Moving fast, with style, over his favorite wave. He lives for nothing else. And it shows.

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