Laird Hamilton is probably the most visually famous surfer to ever live. It’s not possible to accurately gauge that of course. Kelly Slater would like a word. As would Duke Kahanamoku. But Laird has ridden more and bigger waves on stranger surf craft than either of his competing icons, and that makes for far more exposure to a worldwide audience. Anyway, Laird is nearly 60, and he’s out there in the deserts of Peru, riding a wave at Chicama that’s more than three minutes long. On a foil. You can’t just stand there on a foil, either. You have to constantly push and draw the thing up and down, a tremendous leg workout. Looks effortless, but it’s the opposite. Still though (provided you turn the eerie music off), there’s a mesmerizing kind of calm that comes over when watching this.


Pin It on Pinterest