Barbarian Days, a memoir of a surfing life, written by New Yorker staffer Bill Finnegan, collected bushels of praise from a surf community normally starved for decent prose, was a personal addition to President Obama’s library, and earned Finnegan a Pulitzer. This short, featuring Finnegan and pal Rusty Miller examining, then surfing a bouncy right-hander, is set to Finnegan narrating from his book, and comes awfully close to perfectly capturing the mundane wonder of life as a surfer.


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