Jeffreys Bay, South Africa, mostly called J-Bay, is one of the world’s finest waves. For decades, it’s attracted surfers from around the world, the rich and the poor, the famous and the unknown. Many of those surfers, either because they were down on their luck, or because they’d found as perfect a life as they could imagine, ended up living in the dunes near the wave, some in caves, some in hollow canopies of the tangled bush. Bruce Gold is one of the last of this dying breed. A man for whom surfing answered every question. Living off oysters he plucked from the rocks, sometimes selling them on the beach, surfing, lounging, Gold hasn’t held a job in more than 50 years. Too busy living life.

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