“The Right” is a dangerous, double-black diamond, mutant wave along the Western Australia coast. For decades it was considered unsurfable, until surfers began whipping each other into the churning maw of the waves there with the power of jet skis.
In this video, Brad Norris, a practiced masochist at The Right, describes nearly drowning after falling on a beast of a wave, then being held down underwater as three more waves detonate on the surface above. Norris inflates his wetsuit vest, designed to shoot him quickly to the surface and still the power of the waves there hold him on the reef below until it’s nearly too late.
A two-wave holddown is already considered the stuff of nightmares for heavy wave surfers. But three? Unheard of. The non-chalance of Norris’ description just shows the steel spine it takes to ride waves like The Right. If they can even be called waves. Broken funhouse horror rides are probably a better description.