A week and a half ago, pro surfer Nic von Rupp was all set to jet to Hawaii, ticket in hand for warm water, pumping Pipe, and palm trees, when he got the call from his team manager that Ireland was going off — pack the heavy rubber and head east instead of west. Temperature on the ground: 32° Fahrenheit. Waves: macking. Buh-bye, bikinis.
This short film by Jose Pedro Gomes is a fairly typical surf porn edit, but Ireland’s big frosty slabs are anything but — thick lips, cold water density, gloaming light. It’s no wonder von Rupp said he took one look and was “shitting.” But his performance in the water is nothing but strong — the kid knows how to kick and drive with speed.